Gretchen Parlato: The Wise Ones review – snappy grooves and languid covers from always-arresting jazz singer | Music | The Guardian

Keyword – Music
Trefwoorden – Music, Culture, Jazz
Title – Gretchen Parlato: The Wise Ones review – snappy grooves and languid covers from always-arresting jazz singer | Music | The Guardian
Author – https://www.theguardian.com/profile/johnfordham
Link – Gretchen Parlato: The Wise Ones review – snappy grooves and languid covers from always-arresting jazz singer | Music | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T08:00:04.000Z
Category – Culture
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/music/2026/sep/11/gretchen-parlato-the-wise-ones-review

H earing Gretchen Parlato’s spellbinding version of the Herbie Hancock song Butterfly was unforgettable when the eloquent LA-born singer’s star glimmered into view in the 2000s. The unique qualities she revealed soon brought her worldwide acclaim. Butterfly would open in an onstage silence only broken by Parlato’s soft handclap on a Brazilian groove, eventually turned into a wordless vocal hook, and then the awestruck natural-world homage of the lyrics written by Hancock’s sister Jean. She would time phrases between deliberately emphatic in-breaths like cymbal hits, and arrestingly morph words in and out of abstract sound.

The Wise Ones arrives as her third album since 2021, when she returned from six years of parenting. Here, she’s backed by longtime partners including folk-rockish and jazz-influenced multi-instrumentalist Alan Hampton and Parlato’s percussionist husband Mark Guiliana, plus guests including Robert Glasper, Meshell Ndegeocello and Becca Stevens.

Parlato’s Never Come Down is a snappy groover for Giuliana’s hustling drums and Ndegeocello’s vocals and bass – full of fast, anthemic rephrasing of a catchy hook that wouldn’t be out of place on a dancefloor. The smooth-jazziness of Glasper’s soft-funky Rainbow is gently resisted by Parlato’s immaculate phrasing, canny timing and clever pacing of the backing vocals, while singer/producer Amber Navran guides her expressively close to neo-soul on the title track. Stevie Wonder’s If It’s Magic is a big highlight, as are Parlato’s languid account of Tears for Fears’ Mad World over a contrasting punchy vamp; her quietly intense chant of the typically pop-seductive Hampton ballad It’s You; and Glasper’s moving paean to creative receptivity Block the Sun. Perhaps aimed at a wider marketplace than its more improvisational and intimate predecessors Flor and Lean In , and not without a humdrum moment or two, The Wise Ones nonetheless confirms that Parlato’s inimitable character never lets her slip into the generic.

Also out this month

Peace and Justice (Flexatronic) is an enthralling session led by an overlooked multi-generic maestro, New York original and longtime Meredith Monk collaborator John Hollenbeck . A Ukraine-themed repertoire originally scheduled for a 2022 Kyiv premiere, it’s a gripping mix of Ukrainian traditional and resistance music, Christmas carols and Hollenbeck originals, played by Portugal’s superb Hot Club Jazz Orchestra and powered by the composer’s creative momentum at the drum kit. Young UK pianist Noah Stoneman continues to develop the spontaneous fluency and freedom from cliche that has already marked him out on Like Yours, a set of freewheeling post-bop variations on lyrical and quietly striking originals, featuring young Danish bass star Felix Moseholm and drummer Jacob Patrone. And Tomorrow’s Warriors-mentored saxophonist/composer Mali Sheard , with A-listers Huw Warren (piano) and Rob Luft (guitar) augmenting her empathic quintet, releases an atmospheric mix of rural tranquillity, urban-jazzy edginess and distinctively talkative alto and soprano sax phrasing on her sophisticated debut Hayfever (ECN Music).

Haruomi Hosono: Yours Sincerely review – slight songs with huge hearts from the Japanese pop pioneer | Pop and rock | The Guardian

Keyword – Music
Trefwoorden – Pop and rock, Music, Culture, Japan, Electronic music
Title – Haruomi Hosono: Yours Sincerely review – slight songs with huge hearts from the Japanese pop pioneer | Pop and rock | The Guardian
Author – https://www.theguardian.com/profile/stevie-chick
Link – Haruomi Hosono: Yours Sincerely review – slight songs with huge hearts from the Japanese pop pioneer | Pop and rock | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T07:30:03.000Z
Category – Culture
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/music/2026/sep/11/haruomi-hosono-yours-sincerely-review

H aruomi Hosono is one of the most influential figures in Japanese music. In 1969, his psych-folk group Happy End were the first rock group to sing in Japanese; decades later, their song Kaze wo Atsumete was rediscovered for the Lost in Translation soundtrack. He was also an integral member of electronic pioneers Yellow Magic Orchestra, and scored movies and video games, while his solo albums swing from foundational city pop texts to experiments in ambient and arch exotica.

Now 79, with disciples including Van Dyke Parks and Harry Styles (who named 2022’s Harry’s House after 1973 solo album Hosono House), he still makes whatever music he wants. His 23rd solo album is wilful, playful, unpredictable and utterly beguiling. Rooted in the Japanese concept of omoiyari , roughly translated as compassion, these songs are big-hearted, focusing on warmth and positivity: opening reverie Note of Mothership features a chorus of overlapping voices murmur-singing “we are mothers”; the sweet Happy Holiday repeats its title over an enchantingly simple melody; Sincerely is a sleepy, Leon Redbone-esque strum.

But Yours Sincerely evades mawkishness with its mischievous invention. The Gallic waltz of Aayurveda is inverted exotica, with Europe cast as the mysterious “other”; the primitive electronica of Anemo Wheel channels the innocent charms of early synth innovators Isao Tomita and Wendy Carlos; Rojiura (Walking Vibration) is rooted in Japanese rhythms and percussion, but deliciously lost in time. Hosono’s themes of compassion and hope in humanity’s better side make this collection of miniatures and sketches something greater than its already bewitching parts.

Week in wildlife: a sea turtle hatchling, baby orangutans and flying ibises | Wildlife | The Guardian

Keyword – Environment
Trefwoorden – Wildlife, Animals, World news, Environment, Photography, Art and design, Zoology
Title – Week in wildlife: a sea turtle hatchling, baby orangutans and flying ibises | Wildlife | The Guardian
Author – https://www.theguardian.com/profile/joanna-ruck
Link – Week in wildlife: a sea turtle hatchling, baby orangutans and flying ibises | Wildlife | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T07:00:03.000Z
Category – News
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/environment/gallery/2026/sep/11/week-in-wildlife-sea-turtle-hatchling-baby-orangutans-and-flying-ibises

This week’s best wildlife photographs from around the world

100 years after John Coltrane’s birth, secret tapes are emerging. What can they tell us about jazz’s great rulebreaker? | John Coltrane | The Guardian

Keyword – Music
Trefwoorden – John Coltrane, Jazz, Music, Culture, Miles Davis
Title – 100 years after John Coltrane’s birth, secret tapes are emerging. What can they tell us about jazz’s great rulebreaker? | John Coltrane | The Guardian
Author – https://www.theguardian.com/profile/ammar-kalia
Link – 100 years after John Coltrane’s birth, secret tapes are emerging. What can they tell us about jazz’s great rulebreaker? | John Coltrane | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T07:00:03.000Z
Category – Culture
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/music/2026/sep/11/100-years-after-john-coltranes-birth-secret-tapes-are-emerging-what-can-they-tell-us-about-jazzs-great-rulebreaker

I n August 1965, at the height of his fame, saxophonist John Coltrane headlined the DownBeat jazz festival in Chicago. Taking to the stage with a new member of his band, young experimentalist Archie Shepp on tenor, Coltrane’s quartet blew through a series of jagged and free improvisations, straying from structured compositions and, instead, hurling down sheets of sound so loud and aggressive that they reportedly caused widespread walk-outs. DownBeat’s own reviewer later wrote : “They gave as tasteless a display of musicianship as I’ve ever heard … Shepp and Coltrane seemed to be more interested in trying to out-honk, out-squeal and out-bleat each other than in playing music.”

That 1965 performance should have been a triumphant moment, after five years of Coltrane’s star ascending. Since leaving Miles Davis’s “first great quintet”, with whom he had recorded what would become the bestselling jazz album of all time – 1959’s Kind of Blue – Coltrane founded an entirely new harmonic language in jazz with the 1960 release of his solo LP Giant Steps , had a radio hit with his 1961 version of The Sound of Music’s My Favourite Things and, in January 1965, formulated his own spiritual imagining of jazz music with the Grammy-nominated album A Love Supreme . He was already a giant of the genre, contributing dozens of compositions to the standard repertoire, but two years later, in 1967, aged just 40, he would be dead of liver cancer.

“He torched his commercial appeal by going avant garde,” says the writer and Coltrane biographer Ben Ratliff . “He wasn’t interested in pissing people off but he wanted to absorb new influences, younger players and explore the unknown. He always wanted to keep moving forward and to keep listening to himself. He was questing and working towards a kind of endless music.”

To mark the centenary of Coltrane’s birth this month, that quest is being documented on a series of previously unreleased, holy grail recordings of his nightclub experiments. Regularly taking up four- to six-week residencies in spaces such as the Jazz Gallery in Manhattan, the Showboat in Washington DC or Pep’s Lounge in Philadelphia, Coltrane would play extended sets of new material that existed purely in the moment of their making: unplanned and unruly.

Dubbed The Tiberi Tapes after Frank Tiberi, the saxophonist who made the recordings, the reel-to-reel tapes initially existed as Tiberi’s private means of study. Taking a bulky Magnavox TR-100 to clubs, with its microphone hidden in the sleeve of his overcoat, Tiberi began recording concerts, managing to change the tapes in the dark every 30 minutes to capture as much of Coltrane’s virtuosity as possible. Following Coltrane’s quartet from 1960 to 1964, just before the recording of A Love Supreme, Tiberi amassed 80 reels of recordings and more than 60 hours of music that he began sharing with select peers and students: a map of Coltrane’s circuitous route to endless music.

Sax legend Joe Lovano played with Tiberi as part of the Woody Herman Big Band in 1976 and remembers being astounded by the material. “Frank would come and put the headphones on me and press play on certain sections to illustrate the way Coltrane would work harmonic changes or melodies,” Lovano says. “It was inspiring because you could already hear how he was playing single tunes for 35 minutes or more; really stretching out to follow the music and let it take him where it wanted to go. That freedom of his later work was always present in the way he took his own melodic path and left space for others.” Lovano later played with McCoy Tyner, Coltrane’s pianist from 1960 to 1965, “and he told me they all knew Frank was recording but he had their blessing. The band knew it was for education and the music first.”

Tiberi, who is now 97 and was unavailable for interview, offered up the tapes recently to Coltrane’s final record label, Impulse!, as a means of preserving their history. Whittling down those 26 hours of music to 11 newly mastered compositions, the Tiberi Tapes compilation doesn’t shy away from the often poor audio quality of the haphazard recordings or the raucous environment of their making. Audience members can be heard chatting in the background or yelping in response to spirited passages, while Coltrane’s saxophone lines weave through the tape hiss to produce startlingly beautiful takes on a slower, more melodic version of Giant Steps, as well as a 33-minute extension of A Love Supreme’s Resolution. “The energy of these recordings is important because it captures the creative spark Coltrane was feeding off,” says jazz historian Ashley Kahn . “This was social music, so people are chatting or making noise, but if you can work your way through, it gives as much back as you put in.”

For Lovano, the Tapes serve as a testament to the relationships Coltrane had with each of the musicians in his band. “It was legendary how much he practised and played, all day, every day. And then performing until 4am before driving home to his babies. He’s just a young man striving in his 30s and he shares that inspirational energy,” he says. “You can hear how he digs new cats like Archie Shepp or [drummer] Rashied Ali or [saxophonist] Pharoah Sanders – they loved each other and he let everyone stand on their own two feet. You can always hear the seeds of where he will go next.”

What came next was the most uncompromising album of Coltrane’s career. Recorded in June 1965 (a few weeks before the DownBeat festival show) and released the following year, Ascension was the first recorded taste of this unruly, alienating music. He expanded his quartet to include seven extra players from the experimental fringes of free jazz, including Sanders and John Tchicai who would go on to be pioneers in their own right. The 40-minute suite was recorded unrehearsed in two takes and plays like a big band spiralling through screeching solos that struggle to maintain their balance over the shifting tectonic plates of melody. At points, the cacophony is so overwhelming that it feels like listening to seven conversations at once.

“Post-1965, it’s the line in the sand, and still the most challenging part of Coltrane’s career for many,” Kahn says. “It was so new and revolutionary they didn’t have names for it. Was it Energy Music? The New Thing? It was so radical that people had real issues understanding what was going on.”

By 1966, after Tiberi stopped recording and had embarked on his own career, Coltrane had absorbed several new, subversive players into his fold, including free music saxophonist Albert Ayler, who was famous for playing 40-minute elongated live versions of single, hard-blowing tunes. During a show with Ayler, two drummers and Coltrane’s wife, Alice, a pianist, at the Lincoln Center in New York in February of that year, even more of Coltrane’s audience reportedly left in droves after hearing the untethered, explosive direction in which his music was going. The writer Amiri Baraka described the atonal experience as a sound “of an actual frightening nature … it swallowed you!”, while saxophonist Dave Liebman estimated almost half of the 2,600-seat audience walked out over the hour-long performance.

“In Coltrane’s later period, we have an artist who is at such a masterful level that his playing has moved beyond our immediate understanding,” saxophonist and Coltrane acolyte James Brandon Lewis says. “There was always intent and direction with his line but our ears might be too untrained to know what he was trying to solve. He was connecting improvisation to the tribal and spiritual history of music, seeing it all as one thing – the folklore and the future.”

Continuing to perform and record until just months before his sudden death in July 1967, the question of where Coltrane would go next has haunted fans and listeners ever since. “He was always searching for his sound and he never stopped,” says saxophonist Melissa Aldana. “In the later years, it was like he was trying to find a divine vibration, free from any kind of preconceived limitations. He was deep into the sound and he was totally free. That’s what always brings me back to him and it means there will always be something new to find in his playing as we continue to listen.”

While his audiences might have waned in his later years, it is that same, ceaseless searching that now seems to pull younger listeners in 100 years on from his birth. Ironically, Ascension – the album that heralded his “difficult” late phase – was reissued in June this year owing to demand. “Don’t analyse him, just hear,” Lewis says. “Open up your heart and receive the message. Whatever you think it might be.”

The Tiberi Tapes are released on 6 November via Impulse! Melissa Aldana and Joe Lovano perform Coltrane 100 on 13 November at the Barbican, London, as part of EFG London jazz festival . A new best-of compilation, Coltrane 100, is released on 2 October via Rhino

‘I never imagined such pleasure could be had from the simple sardine’: readers’ favourite foodie experiences in Europe | Food and drink | The Guardian

Keyword – Travel
Trefwoorden – Food and drink, Europe holidays, Travel
Title – ‘I never imagined such pleasure could be had from the simple sardine’: readers’ favourite foodie experiences in Europe | Food and drink | The Guardian
Author – https://www.theguardian.com/profile/guardian-readers
Link – ‘I never imagined such pleasure could be had from the simple sardine’: readers’ favourite foodie experiences in Europe | Food and drink | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T06:00:04.000Z
Category – Lifestyle
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2026/sep/11/readers-favourite-food-experiences-europe

Simple sardines in the Algarve

Last August, the smoky aroma of grilled sardines drifting over the beach in Portimão woke me up from my sunbathing on the beach. Attracted by the aroma of barbecued fish, we found ourselves in the old port where, for €12, I was served two delicious sandwiches on rustic bread of sardines in garlic and olive oil, with a small cold beer. I sat down, ate and chatted with locals on benches at simple communal tables. The important thing seemed to be to enjoy food together. The next morning, a reenactment of the fishing boats arriving loaded with fish, as they once were, was a real spectacle – complete with guitar playing, drum-banging and excited seagulls whirling and wailing above in the hope of a feast. Later, concerts and dancing animated the town as the party for the sardine festival went on well into the night. Cooking demos and dishes including sardine-based soup and salads, added to the enjoyment. I never imagined such pleasure could be had from the simple sardine. Joe

A family dinner in the Faroe Islands

My wife and I visited the Faroe Islands a few years ago, where we took part in heimablídni , a concept where traditional Faroese food is served in a home. We found it to be one of the best ways to experience the Faroes and a unique experience to share a meal with a local family. Homecooked dishes showcase ingredients from the surrounding sea and mountains. We were served smoked salmon from the host’s own smoker, lamb, potatoes and traditional specialities, all accompanied with great conversation about Faroese life and traditions. Sitting around a family table makes the experience feel personal and authentic. Mike

A vegan feast in Sicily

As a vegan who loves trying local cuisine, the combination of warm hospitality and a high proportion of locals with a lactose intolerance makes Sicily the ideal foodie getaway. Having hiked to the top of Monte Pellegrino in 35C heat, we popped into a small nondescript street-food shop (the only place that was open) and were delighted to find panelle – delicious crispy chickpea-flour fritters served in sesame bread. We ate them overlooking Palermo harbour. That evening, we tried Haiku , a vegan restaurant with reimagined classics based on dishes such as carbonara and tiramisu. It was so good we kept ordering more and more courses until we could barely move. Esther

Strong spirits and small plates in Greece

The city of Volos is famous for its Tsipouradika – tavernas that serve tsipouro , a strong spirit made from pomace, the stems, skins and seeds that are left over from wine making. It comes plain or infused with botanicals and anise, and is served with ice and water. Each glass you order arrives with a different small plate or meze. It could be grilled peppers, sundried octopus, a spicy cheese spread or smoked mackerel. You take pot luck as to what the patron fancies dishing up that day. Barbara

The perfect snack to pair with Lithuanian beer

In Vilnius, we came across the ultimate food pairing for the fantastic beers available there in the form of kepta duona – deep-fried rye bread with garlic and cheese. Every bar has a slightly different version – raw, roast or confit garlic with cream, melted or simply grated cheese. A heavenly snack that could easily become your main meal. Natalie

Vegan delights in the patisseries of Paris

Being an unfortunate combination of a foodie and a vegan, I was prepared for a weekend of staring longingly into patisserie windows when heading to Paris earlier this summer. I was not prepared for the unbridled joy awaiting me at the Land & Monkeys boulangeries/patisseries scattered across the capital. It began with an outrageously creamy raspberry petit gateaux from its Montmartre branch, followed by the unbelievable fluff and flake of a croissant aux champignons in the Marais the next day. A parting madeleine for the Eurostar on our last day was the pièce de résistance. Elinor

Pasta with pears in Bologna

It was in Bologna, Italy’s self-proclaimed food capital, where I sampled the city’s signature dish of tortellini. We stumbled across Rosarose Bistrot , enticed by tables with red-checked cloths set in the middle of a cobblestone road. I enjoyed shells stuffed with tangy gorgonzola cheese and chunks of caramelised pears, a fruit I would usually avoid, but I placed trust in the regional delicacy. The fruit’s sweetness blended harmoniously with the strong cheese flavour; crispy and soft fried bread known as crescentine , was used to soak up the remaining sauce. It was only right to mark this culinary experience with a small tortellini keyring from a nearby gift shop, filled with various merchandise emblazoned with the pasta shell. Caitlin

Catalonia’s ultimate slow-food festival

Last year, I discovered the ultimate slow-food festival – the Snail Feast of Lleida ( L’Aplec del Caragol ), 100 miles west of Barcelona. Over a long weekend, there was music, dancing, cooking and feasting, all in celebration of the tiny mollusc. Entrance to the festival is free, and visitors can enjoy traditional snail dishes in tents, local restaurants or simply in the town squares. I had two helpings of snails a la gormanda , cooked in a sauce of spicy paprika and herbs. Since attending the festival, I have been treading carefully in my garden in case I harm what I discovered are delicate and delicious creatures. Helen

Heavenly cakes in Slovenia

Having travelled by train from Bristol down through the Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland and Italy, we reached our penultimate stop, Lake Bled. We’d been awed by the beautiful Swiss alpine scenery, but Bled took it up a notch. After a day of cycling from Bled to Lake Bohinj and back, we refuelled on the local delicacy, Bled cake, a sumptuously smooth set custard encased in the lightest of mille-feuille pastry and topped with whipped cream. Imagine an English custard slice, only a million times better. It was so welcome after a day in the Slovenian mountain air, we made it a holiday habit. A Bled cake a day until we had to come home! Sara

Winning tip: delicious seafood soup in Spain

Few meals linger in the memory like a proper Asturian sopa de pescado y marisco (seafood soup). After kayaking 10 miles down the Sella River, my reward in the town of Arriondas wasn’t a humble bowl of soup – it was a whole pan! Every flavour shone through in a broth packed with white fish, prawns and sweet crab claws, so extraordinarily rich it almost brought me to tears. I devoured it all, skipping the rest of the courses without regret. Years later in Gijón, history repeated itself. Even my soup-sceptical husband declared it the best he had ever tasted. In Asturias, fish soup isn’t a starter. It’s an obsession in a pot. Oksana

Mistakes, mistrust and misdirection: 25 years after 9/11, its dark legacy continues to unfold | September 11 2001 | The Guardian

Keyword – US news
Trefwoorden – September 11 2001, US news, US politics
Title – Mistakes, mistrust and misdirection: 25 years after 9/11, its dark legacy continues to unfold | September 11 2001 | The Guardian
Author – David Smith
Link – Mistakes, mistrust and misdirection: 25 years after 9/11, its dark legacy continues to unfold | September 11 2001 | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T06:00:03.000Z
Category – News
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/ng-interactive/2026/sep/11/september-11-dark-legacy

As clear as that cloudless September morning, Jenna Jacobs McPartland remembers the moment everything changed. “I was cleaning the bathroom and watching the Today show in the background and nine months pregnant,” the 52-year-old recalls by phone. “I think they were showing ‘Today throws a wedding’ when the news broke in.”

A plane had hit the north tower of the World Trade Center in New York. McPartland did not know that her husband, Ariel Jacobs, was attending a conference at its Windows on the World restaurant . “I called his office to say, ‘Hey, turn on the TV. Do you guys know what’s going on?’ His assistant said, ‘Oh my God, Jenna, he’s there.’ The whole world disappeared and there was this sort of hollow collapsing feeling.”

Ariel Jacobs did not live to see his son, Gabriel, born six days after September 11, 2001 . McPartland, then living in Briarcliff Manor, New York , would marry twice more, set up a grief support charity , and become a chef and restaurateur. Each 9/11 anniversary, she has a picnic at the cemetery where a few pieces of bone from her late husband are buried.

Speaking from Fairfield, Connecticut , McPartland says: “Ari was an incredibly joyful person who cherished his life. I made a conscious choice to honour him by living as joyfully as I can. It’s not always easy. I still cry pretty frequently. If there’s a movie with a building getting blown up, or if I’m reading a book and they casually mention ‘post-9/11 this’ or whatever, it catches me off guard. The grief finds a place to live in the heart , and you visit it.”

McPartland and other victims’ families have learned to live with that grief over the past 25 years. But America writ large has struggled to carry the weight of the worst terrorist attack in its history. The world’s most powerful nation responded by inflicting terror of its own, betraying its history as a safe harbour for immigrants , and pitting Americans against one another. The initial heroism, goodwill and unity of 9/11 gave way to discord at home and diminished moral authority abroad.

McPartland adds: “It makes me incredibly sad and bordering on angry that the death of my husband has been invoked to cause more violence. It is the othering of people that got him killed in the first place and, when we Americans fail to learn that lesson and choose collectively as a nation to other people, whether it’s immigrants or other nations, that is a deepening of that tragedy that is sickening and unfathomable to me.”

Unspeakable loss

On September 10, 2001 George W Bush travelled to Florida to push education reform legislation. AOL was seeking a big stake in AT&T’s cable unit . Promising tennis player Lleyton Hewitt, 20, had just swept Pete Sampras aside to win the US Open.

America seemed unassailable. It had won the cold war and enjoyed a relatively peaceful 1990s as “the indispensable nation”, in secretary of state Madeleine Albright’s framing. From fiscal years 1998 to 2001, the federal government recorded four consecutive budget surpluses.

But what had been dubbed “the American century” came to an apocalyptic end on the next morning . Nearly 3,000 people were killed as 19 al-Qaida hijackers seized control of four airliners, slamming two of the planes into the World Trade Center, one into the Pentagon in Arlington, Virginia, and the fourth into a field in western Pennsylvania.

Among the most wrenching images were office workers leaping to their deaths from the burning twin towers. On the wall of the national September 11 museum in New York is a quotation from James Gilroy, a resident of lower Manhattan: “She had a business suit on, her hair was all askew … This woman stood there for what seemed like minutes, then she held down her skirt and then jumped off the ledge … I thought, how human, how modest, to hold down her skirt before she jumped.”

Unthinkably, both of the 110-storey towers collapsed, unleashing giant clouds of ash and dust on the streets of lower Manhattan as fragments of paper fluttered down like confetti. David Blight , a historian who advised the museum, which opened in 2014, said: “It’s the most visual event in history – so photographed, so much footage, so many documentaries. It is so shocking, so horrifying that you can’t watch it without a certain weeping. One of the things that should never stop about 9/11 is the essential grief of it. There is a sheer sense of unspeakable loss .”

At first the loss brought out America’s better angels. Firefighters and first responders displayed inspiring courage. Ordinary citizens queued to donate blood. The nation came together as rarely before and received global sympathy, with Russia pledging support, Iran holding candlelight vigils and Nato invoking Article 5 for the first and only time in its history. Bush visited Ground Zero in New York and, wielding a megaphone , declared that “the people who knocked these buildings down will hear all of us soon.”

They did. The US invaded Afghanistan to destroy al-Qaida and topple its Taliban protectors, a war that would drag on for a record 20 years only for the Taliban to return . Bush then attacked Iraq on the false premise that Saddam Hussein possessed weapons of mass destruction, at a cost of hundreds of thousands of lives.

The global war on terror expanded into a sprawling enterprise of military intervention, intelligence operations, detention and interrogation. Some suspects were tortured, including through waterboarding at CIA “black sites”.

A quarter of a century later, 100 million Americans are too young to remember 9/11 and only from this vantage point, perhaps, can the consequences be seen clearly.

Historians and policy experts interviewed by the Guardian suggest that the reaction to 9/11 was a profound strategic miscalculation that distracted the US from the rise of China and sowed the seeds of its own decline.

Hunting for enemies

“9/11 is when things began to go wrong for the United States,” suggested Bill Galston , a former policy adviser to Bill Clinton. “The United States was at the apogee of its post-cold war power on September 10 and then, through a series of missteps and misjudgments on both the foreign and domestic front, we have thrown away a great deal of not only our power but our credibility.

“ In my judgment, 9/11 set off a quarter-century of misgovernment in the United States and we’ll pay the price for that for a very long time.”

Did Osama Bin Laden, the al-Qaida leader who masterminded the attacks, win after all? If the metric of victory is measured by Bin Laden’s immediate, messianic desire to establish a global caliphate and expel all western presence from the Middle East, he evidently failed. Al-Qaida was eventually hunted to near-extinction and Bin Laden himself killed in a Pakistani compound in 2011.

But if the terrorist’s success is measured by the magnitude of the self-inflicted wounds they provoke from their target, Bin Laden’s legacy is a slow, autoimmune decay within the US, it may have exceeded his darkest fantasies.

Ben Rhodes , a former deputy national security adviser under Barack Obama, said: “Bin Laden in some ways failed in his intentions. He wanted the United States out of the Middle East. He wanted to topple certain governments in the Middle East. But in other ways 9/11 is the most successful terrorist attack in history insofar as it prompted such an overreach from the United States that we hastened our own decline, division and betrayal of our own story.”

Like countless others, the course of Rhodes’ life was changed by 9/11. He was 23 and working on a city council election campaign at a polling site on the Brooklyn waterfront. He saw the second plane hit the twin towers and watched the rest of the carnage unfold. The event spurred him to move to Washington , and get involved in foreign policy.

He regards the cost of 25 years of “forever wars” as incalculable. They placed a huge burden on the Americans who fought them and had to deal with problems ranging from war wounds to the opioids crisis . They also contributed to the destruction of the rules-based order, paving the way for Russia’s Vladimir Putin and others to reject the rules and use the language of counter-terrorism to justify stringent crackdowns.

Then, there is the domestic sphere. Rhodes says the typical Fox News viewer during the Bush years was promised great victories over foreign enemies. “When nations don’t keep those types of promises, when you unleash that kind of nationalism and xenophobia and you don’t succeed on the battlefield, history tells you that people start to look for enemies within to blame,” he explained.

“My experience in the Obama years is very much that ‘the other’ that had been constructed around terrorists morphed into the Black president or the immigrants crossing the southern border or LGBT people. The segments were the same but the enemy had changed to an enemy within.”

Living with the legacy

Donald Trump launched his first bid for the presidency, a decade ago, against the backdrop of this search for blame. Promoting the lie that Obama is a Muslim , demonising immigrants, and promising to build a border wall, he cut through by railing – in a clear break from Bush and Republican orthodoxy – against political elites for waging forever wars that he claimed he would stop (he has called the invasion of Iraq “the single worst decision ever made” in US history).

“ You’d never have Donald Trump as president without 9/11 because he basically stepped into that slipstream of othering people and captured the ugly xenophobia and nationalism that had been unleashed and the anger that people, particularly on the right, felt at being gaslit by the Bush administration for eight years,” said Rhodes.

“ It’s no coincidence that Trump’s ascent was marked by the destruction of Jeb Bush, who symbolised all those broken promises.”

Now, Rhodes argues, the war on terror has come home. US Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) agents are “basically running counter-insurgency strategies in American cities, with the same military equipment that we used to fight wars now in the hands of law enforcement”, he said. “ Some of the same people have signed up to do it , and the same surveillance technologies that we use against terrorists abroad are now used against Americans. We are now living in the theatre of the war on terror and it’s obviously a source of growing discomfort to many Americans.”

As the US overextended itself abroad, the machinery of endless war also boomeranged back on to the domestic front, eroding civil liberties and legal norms it claimed to defend. The Patriot Act , which dispensed with rules that prevented the state monitoring US citizens without “probable cause”, was passed just 45 days after the attacks, radically expanding the powers of law enforcement agencies.

Jameel Jaffer , who moved to New York just weeks after the attacks before spending 14 years litigating national-security cases for the American Civil Liberties Union, saw the transition from the ground level. His early volunteer work involved visiting immigration detention centres in New York and New Jersey, where hundreds of immigrants had been rounded up in the panic after September 11.

Over the next decade and a half, Jaffer litigated major constitutional battles involving warrantless wiretapping, secret detention and targeted killings. He watched as the National Security Agency developed an enormous surveillance apparatus, much of which became public through reporting and, later, Edward Snowden’s disclosures .

Jaffer, now executive director of the Knight First Amendment Institute at Columbia University, argues that many of the surveillance authorities created after 9/11 remain in place or have become even more sweeping. “So much of what’s going on now is traceable to the institutions and authorities that were created after 9/11 and that the courts failed to limit,” he said. “The use of the material support laws to prosecute anti-ICE protesters in Texas . The use of the Espionage Act to threaten and intimidate journalists who are writing about issues that the public needs to know about.

“Even the arrests and detentions and threatened deportation of students for protesting on university campuses: that policy is built on deference that the courts extended to the executive branch 25 years after 9/11. We are absolutely living with the legacy of these decisions made and policies instituted in the years after 9/11.”

A new era

Guantánamo Bay, where 780 men and boys have been imprisoned since 9/11, became one of the most visible symbols of the era. The Iraq war produced the Abu Ghraib scandal , in which US personnel and contractors subjected detainees to abuse, humiliation and torture.

Obama tried, and failed , to shut down Guantánamo. Trump has since faced intense criticism for sending immigrants to the prison.

Jeremy Varon, a history professor at the New School in New York and leading member of Witness Against Torture, a group seeking to close Guantánamo, said: “The United States committed to a programme and policy of torture, violating international law and its own laws, and an element of gratuitous cruelty and even sadism became operationally part of the war on terror.

“People equated national strength and security with the ability to inflict harm on vulnerable others. The more violence we dish out, the stronger and the better and the safer we somehow are and a lot of that violence boomeranged and made new enemies.

“But beyond those it victimised, it destroyed any pretence that we’re a constitutional order that obeys the rule of law, that honours national treaties. It inaugurated an era of executive power operating with utter impunity and immunity. The lawlessness of Trump is an utterly predictable consequence of the contempt for the rule of law, oversight, checks and balances that the Bush administration displayed .”

For Varon, there is a clear connection between the brutal methods of the global war on terror and the excesses of ICE under Trump. He points to notorious detention centres in Texas and New Jersey where inmates routinely suffer medical neglect, and recent reports of harrowing deportation flights where migrants are flown to Africa in shackles .

“People report living in fear and filth and squalor without access to basic hygiene, to attorneys,” he said. “ Families are broken up and there’s a level of the willful infliction of suffering that is staggering and wouldn’t seem to be even a necessary part of the broad immigration strategy.

“Again there’s this sick need that collectivities feel they have to dominate those that they perceive as lesser. Muslims and Arabs were the great community under suspicion and that’s been replaced to a large extent by brown-skinned migrants from other parts of the world. When you have a rhetoric that demonises people as criminal and subhuman, it invites their mistreatment.”

A different path

The collateral of this 25-year trajectory has been the evisceration of trust in US public institutions. Varon argues that this environment birthed a “post-truth condition” where empirical reality was abandoned and conspiracy theories thrive .

The official September 11 narrative was challenged by the “truther” movement , which suggested the attacks were an “inside job” orchestrated by the US government. The Bush administration’s false claims about Iraqi weapons of mass destruction laid the groundwork for Trump’s cynical style, which relies on the public believing that everyone is lying so they might as well vote for a demagogue who is honest about it.

Only last week it was reported that Trump has ordered the Department of Homeland Security, created in the aftermath of 9/11, to burnish his false claims of election fraud by embarking on a weeks-long search for non-citizens on US voter rolls, a move seen by watchdogs as an intimidation effort ahead of November’s midterm elections.

The president will attend a commemoration at the Pentagon on Friday while JD Vance will be at the national 9/11 memorial in New York.

Once again crowds will pause to remember the workers desperately waving clothes, sheets and tablecloths from the doomed towers, the firefighters who climbed staircases and never returned, the airline passengers who stormed the cockpit to stop United Airlines Flight 93 reaching its target in Washington.

But will they weigh what came next, what it cost the US in blood and treasure and what might have happened if the country had chosen a different path?

“Consider what we didn’t do,” said Rhodes. “I sometimes am haunted by this. The trillions of dollars spent on a forever war: what could that have been spent on? Climate change, universal healthcare, public education. There’s a real opportunity cost to how we chose to spend our time and resources.

“If you came down to Earth from another planet and you had to make sense of the fact that the United States spent several trillion dollars chasing a relatively small number of terrorists around a few countries, toppling governments and then fighting insurgencies, when it has huge problems with deindustrialisation, with its education system, with the onset of climate change, you would think this is a country that has gone insane.”

A Thought Without Collision by Adrian Duncan review – a brilliant interrogation of philosophy and wonder | Fiction | The Guardian

Keyword – Books
Trefwoorden – Fiction, Books, Culture, Philosophy books
Title – A Thought Without Collision by Adrian Duncan review – a brilliant interrogation of philosophy and wonder | Fiction | The Guardian
Author – https://www.theguardian.com/profile/daisy-hildyard
Link – A Thought Without Collision by Adrian Duncan review – a brilliant interrogation of philosophy and wonder | Fiction | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T06:00:02.000Z
Category – Culture
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/books/2026/sep/11/a-thought-without-collision-by-adrian-duncan-review-a-brilliant-interrogation-of-philosophy-and-wonder

F or several years I ran community groups that involved reading books aloud with other adults. Sharing the experience of reading in that way made me notice how, when one or more of us was baffled by a story, this bafflement was rarely experienced without an accompanying sense of mild anger. It was so easy to make us, the readers, angry – at the characters; at the author; perhaps even at the nature of this reality on which we’d lost our grip. We were confronted with the fact that our capacity to understand the world was limited. We didn’t like that.

Irish author Adrian Duncan’s fifth novel, A Thought Without Collision, takes risks with this bafflement: it relates and conveys an experience of being mystified by the universe. As it opens, in Ireland in 1923, it is becoming apparent that six-year-old Catherine has exceptional academic gifts, and that her father’s farm is failing. In the next chapter, set in 1951, Dr Josef Alois, a Tyrolean émigré academic in his mid-50s, is living in his self-built house on the east coast of Scotland. He is alone until Catherine reappears, “a handsome woman in her mid-thirties”, and now an Oxford professor. The second chapter ends starkly: Alois “is more unwell than he believes and will perish in one month and eleven days”.

Details of Alois’s biography, and aspects of his two books, are drawn from the life of Ludwig Wittgenstein. The novel references the philosopher’s near-contemporaries, GE Moore, Gottlob Frege and Maurice Merleau-Ponty. Like Alois and Catherine, these men laboured to establish a particular understanding of the world. Some pages of A Thought Without Collision present diagrams or passages of algebraic logic. Throughout, descriptions of small, mysterious places (“pockets” in Catherine’s mind, pits dug in the ground, golf holes, a swallow’s nest) are emblems of the other worlds that surround us, intimated but not available to human knowledge. As Catherine’s intelligence becomes increasingly polymathic, her interest ranges from complex mathematics to animal sentience. She pictures hidden worlds in the sky: a “plane of translucent and unconnected fragments above them all”.

The narrative is related in short, alternating chapters that switch between the two time periods. This creates a sense of flickering movement, like chevrons on a motorway: we see Catherine’s life speed by, an effect intensified by Alois’s impending death. It’s a feat of engineering that the story can cut between these two temporalities and their respective revelations, as it plays with multiple philosophical traditions, while navigating the landscapes of the several distinct historical settings to which the novel takes us.

Beyond these accomplishments, A Thought Without Collision does not feel abstruse or tricksy to read. Its mysteries, like the mysteries of the universe, are not here to infuriate reading groups. When Catherine’s father stakes his farm on American stock market investments, we see how floating abstractions are tethered to material realities.

From his debut, Love Notes from a German Building Site, through The Gorgeous Inertia of the Earth , all Duncan’s novels share a meticulous, patient narrative voice. While some have leaned on a blurry psychological disintegration for their denouement, here the conclusions are more definite: with economic gestures, he offers glimpses of the characters’ new worlds. The novel often reads as a realist Irish rural story: hens underfoot, cold black tea on the table, drizzle. Catherine, so dignified, with a bone-deep sadness contracted via childhood tragedy, could almost be a William Trevor character. But in Duncan’s fiction that tradition converges with a cerebral European mode that is drawn to philosophy, architecture, madness and exile. I can’t think of another writer who draws from the same seams in any comparable way.

The prose is exceptionally, perhaps deceptively, straightforward. When Alois makes dinner, he “sets a dark pot on his range to boil. He then lifts a skillet from the wall and begins to heat it up. He takes butter from his tiny pantry and carves a half-inch cube from it. Then he takes a delph pot from a cupboard and from it lifts two eggs, with which to prepare an omelette.”

This physical attention is intense (there’s more detail here than in a cookbook) but not sustained (it isn’t Knausgård), and so the close descriptions, when they come, seem weighted with something other than themselves. What is the “tiny pantry” here to impart? Is it contextual detail, or a metaphor? We might consider the relation to Wittgensteinian language games; the differing positions played by words as they arise from, and become a part of, actions in the world.

There is also a plainer effect of this superfluity of precision, which is that it feels suggestive – like a photorealistic still life, where the careful replication of detail is an occasion to meditate on something seen through it. In A Thought Without Collision, every half-inch cube of butter makes you wonder.

A Thought Without Collision by Adrian Duncan is published by Tuskar Rock (£14.99). To support the Guardian buy a copy at guardianbookshop.com . Delivery charges may apply.

Benjamina Ebuehi’s recipe for ricotta, blackberry and lemon cake | Food | The Guardian

Keyword – Food
Trefwoorden – Food, Cake, Fruit, Cheese, Baking, Eggs, Summer food and drink, Autumn food and drink
Title – Benjamina Ebuehi’s recipe for ricotta, blackberry and lemon cake | Food | The Guardian
Author – https://www.theguardian.com/profile/benjamina-ebuehi
Link – Benjamina Ebuehi’s recipe for ricotta, blackberry and lemon cake | Food | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T05:00:03.000Z
Category – Lifestyle
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/food/2026/sep/11/ricotta-blackberry-lemon-cake-benjamina-ebuehi-recipe

E very year, I get annoyed with myself for not making the most of blackberry season, and then it’s gone before I’ve had a chance really to enjoy them. They’re such great berries to bake with, and here I’ve scattered them in a simple ricotta cake. It’s a quick, one-bowl bake with a perfectly squidgy crumb that’s bursting with fruit.

Ricotta, blackberry and lemon cake

Prep 10 min Cook 45 min Serves 8-10

170g caster sugar Finely grated zest of 2 unwaxed lemons 2 large eggs 70g olive oil 125g ricotta 130g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder ¼ tsp salt 150g blackberries

To finish 125g ricotta 1 tbsp lemon juice ½ tbsp icing sugar , plus extra for dusting

Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4, and grease and line a 23cm loose-bottomed cake tin.

Put the sugar and lemon zest in a bowl and use your fingertips to rub together until fragrant. Add the eggs and oil, whisk until frothy, then mix in the ricotta. Finally, sift in the flour, baking powder and salt, and stir gently to combine.

Pour the batter into the lined tin, scatter the blackberries on top, and bake for 28-32 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Leave the cake to cool completely in its tin, then turn out and dust with icing sugar.

For the whipped ricotta, whisk all the ingredients in a bowl until smooth and creamy; alternatively, for a super-smooth result, blitz it in a food processor.

Serve slices of the cake with a dollop of the whipped ricotta.

Osama bin Laden shook the world on 9/11. Today it is clear how his wider plans failed | Jason Burke | The Guardian

Keyword – Opinion
Trefwoorden – September 11 2001, Osama bin Laden, World news, US news, Al-Qaida, Afghanistan, Iraq
Title – Osama bin Laden shook the world on 9/11. Today it is clear how his wider plans failed | Jason Burke | The Guardian
Author – https://www.theguardian.com/profile/jasonburke
Link – Osama bin Laden shook the world on 9/11. Today it is clear how his wider plans failed | Jason Burke | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T05:00:02.000Z
Category – Opinion
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2026/sep/11/osama-bin-laden-9-11-al-qaida-us-middle-east-muslim

O n 11 September, 25 years ago, Osama bin Laden drove with a small number of al-Qaida retainers and aides to a remote location in eastern Afghanistan. His convoy of SUVs was accompanied by a minivan converted into a makeshift communications centre.

The van’s rudimentary equipment did not allow Bin Laden to watch the 19 men he had started sending to the US more than a year before fly planes into the twin towers in New York and the Pentagon near Washington DC, killing about 3,000 people. But he listened as shocked radio announcers broke the news.

Within days of the murderous assault, the then president, George W Bush, had begun framing the US response as a global “war on terror”, a clumsy, inappropriate and counterproductive strategic choice.

For those of us reporting on the ground during this period – watching US bombers over Afghan mountains and tanks in Baghdad streets , interviewing aspirant suicide bombers or the victims of attacks by extremist groups that proliferated from the UK to the Philippines – the errors and failures of this “war on terror” were glaring.

This unprecedented and indiscriminate series of campaigns would lead to invasions of Afghanistan and Iraq, involve torture, renditions and alliances with dubious regimes, cost huge amounts of money, destabilise swathes of the Middle East and bring suffering to millions of people.

Was this what Bin Laden had hoped to achieve?

It is frequently suggested that Bin Laden’s aim with the 9/11 attacks was to draw the US into wars that would weaken its economy and lead to its eventual collapse, much as the Soviet Union had been fatally drained by the war in Afghanistan between 1979 and 1989. As a young militant, Bin Laden had witnessed this conflict and even participated in it, albeit in a marginal role.

But there is little evidence to back this theory up. Though Bin Laden was undoubtedly inspired by the earlier conflict, he rejected as unrealistic his aides’ warnings that the planned attack would bring US troops to Afghanistan, probably expecting little more than another barrage of ineffective missiles by way of reprisal. Certainly, he had no plan when the US troops did come. Within months of the attacks, shaken al-Qaida members described “misfortune [and] disaster”.

In reality, Bin Laden had a different strategy. He wanted to weaken the US economically and consequently force a withdrawal from the Middle East, not an invasion. In 2004, he boasted that al-Qaida was “bleeding America to the point of bankruptcy”, and that every dollar the group spent attacking the US had cost Washington a million dollars in economic fallout and military spending. This lecture in the advantages of asymmetric warfare resonates today, but was wildly optimistic.

The most costly single event to the US would have been another successful major attack. This never came – an unarguable success of US policymaking since 9/11 and a major failure for al-Qaida. And despite the obvious economic problems in the US, no one could argue that the country has suffered a similar fate to the USSR. Nor, obviously, has it withdrawn its forces from the Middle East.

A second objective of Bin Laden was to force the US to end its support for all the rulers in the region that the once-privileged, Saudi-born dissident so hated, starting with the al-Saud family.

Some of Bin Laden’s targets have been felled since 2001, but not by his actions or by anyone aligned with his vision. Muammar Gaddafi was deposed and killed by western-backed rebels, Saddam Hussein was ousted by the US, and the Assad dynasty’s rule was ended by an al-Qaida veteran who explicitly disavowed the group’s ideology and agenda.

A third aim of Bin Laden was propaganda. His theatre of terror was designed to send a bloody, spectacular and unforgettable message that would radicalise his followers, mobilise new ones and divide communities. He emphasised how attacks such as 9/11 were “just reactions to what’s happening against our children in Palestine, in Iraq, in Somalia, in southern Sudan, in Kashmir”, and called for a global uprising of Muslims against their enemies.

While the 9/11 attacks undoubtedly focused international attention on the conflicts in which Bin Laden saw Muslims as oppressed by the west or its allies, it brought no significant improvement for the victims. The wave of support for Bin Laden and broader interest in extremist Islamism peaked only a few years after 2001, and then quickly ebbed more or less everywhere. Shortly before he was killed by US Navy Seals in Pakistan, Bin Laden was contemplating a rebrand of al-Qaida , its name tarnished by growing criticism within the Islamic world that it was responsible for killing large numbers of Muslims. His successor, the Egyptian Ayman al-Zawahiri, gave up on the uprising altogether, pivoting to a strategy prioritising the local over the global.

If in 2014, in Iraq and Syria, the Islamic State was able to capitalise on the chaos left by the US invasion, sectarian tension and much else to establish its appalling caliphate, even this was over by 2019.

Since then, such groups’ brand of extremism has been confined in large part to the periphery of the Islamic world, and to zones from which the threat to the developed world is intermittent at best. Al-Qaida and the Islamic State have expanded most effectively in sub-Saharan Africa, exploiting anarchy, failed states, demographic pressures, communal competition for scarce resources and the inattention of the west.

Some analysts add together the presumed strength of groups in Somalia or Mali that have very loose, historic links to al-Qaida, and warn that their total membership is higher than those loyal to Bin Laden in 2001. But these few thousand young men with AK-47s have little in common with the organisation Bin Laden led 25 years ago, both in aims and capabilities.

There are still appalling attacks inspired by Bin Laden’s twisted ideology, and there will undoubtedly be more. This is in part due to the polarisation brought about by his violence and the reaction to it – as was his aim.

But it is noteworthy that neither al-Qaida nor IS have prominent charismatic leaders. One reason is that any such figure will be swiftly killed by the vastly more capable US, making identification risky. But it is also because the era when such individuals could command a significant following is over.

It is often said that for an insurgent or terrorist group to win, it merely needs to survive, but there are exceptions. That al-Qaida still exists is an achievement of sorts for the group and, posthumously, for its founder. But it should not be described as any victory.

Jason Burke is the Guardian’s international security correspondent and the author of The Revolutionists: The Story of the Extremists who Hijacked the 1970s

Diana’s ‘revenge dress’, worn when Charles revealed infidelity, up for auction | Diana, Princess of Wales | The Guardian

Keyword – UK news
Trefwoorden – Diana, Princess of Wales, Monarchy, UK news, Fashion, Women’s dresses
Title – Diana’s ‘revenge dress’, worn when Charles revealed infidelity, up for auction | Diana, Princess of Wales | The Guardian
Author – https://www.theguardian.com/profile/laurencochrane
Link – Diana’s ‘revenge dress’, worn when Charles revealed infidelity, up for auction | Diana, Princess of Wales | The Guardian
Publish date – 2026-09-11T05:00:02.000Z
Category – News
URL – https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2026/sep/11/diana-revenge-dress-auction-sothebys-stambolian

The dress that Diana, Princess of Wales wore one September evening in 1994 would have been memorable for its design alone – black, fitted, off-the-shoulder, skintight and short. However, it has another distinction, of defining a whole category of fashion – what has since become known as “revenge dressing”.

Worn by Diana the same night Charles would reveal his infidelity on TV, the dress was quickly labelled “the revenge dress” by the media. It has its own Wikipedia page , with the same title.

Now, for the first time since 1997, it is up for auction. In December, Sotheby’s will sell the garment, designed by Christina Stambolian, with an estimate of £110,000 to £220,000. This month it will go on display at the auction house in London, before travelling to Hong Kong, Geneva and New York, where it will be sold.

Sotheby’s global head of handbags and fashion, Morgane Halimi, says the dress is in very select company, in that its legacy goes beyond design.

“It occupies a unique place in fashion history because it represents one of those very rare moments when a garment transcends fashion to become part of culture history.” This buzz around the design has been there since the 1990s. When Diana sold the dress herself as part of a charity auction in 1997, it raised £39,098, close to £100,000 in today’s money. The family who bought it has owned it since then.

Although it was worn in the infancy of the internet, the revenge dress chimes with terms familiar online. The dress was a viral moment, and an example of Diana controlling the narrative.

“She created a look that no one had ever seen her present before,” says Halimi. “That allowed her to show her resolve to stand up for herself and reclaim the narrative of a story that would have been heartbreaking for anyone in her situation.”

The dress contrasted with how the public was used to seeing her. She chose it over the more traditional gown by Valentino she had planned to wear. Stambolian later compared it to the black swan Odile in Swan Lake.

“She chose not to play the scene like Odette, innocent in white,” the designer told Harper’s Bazaar in 2022 . “She was clearly angry. She played it like Odile in black. She wore bright red nail enamel, which we had never seen her do before. She was saying: ‘Let’s be wicked tonight.’”

If the Stambolian dress is shorthand for revenge dressing now, Halimi says Diana’s choice actually sits in a tradition. “People have long used clothing to signal confidence, transformation or a new chapter in their lives,” she says. “What Diana did was crystallise that idea in a single image that the world immediately understood. The phrase ‘revenge dressing’ entered the cultural lexicon because of this dress.”

In the nearly 30 years since her death, Diana has remained a fashion reference for younger generations. In 2013, Rihanna gave her seal of approval, telling Glamour : “Every look was right. She was gangsta with her clothes.”

There are also copious Instagram accounts dedicated to the princess’s style, including the aptly titled @ladydirevengelooks , which has attracted more than 100,000 followers since it was set up in 2018.

Part of this ability to appeal to younger people was due to Diana being ahead of her time in her fashion choices. “Many of the qualities we admire in contemporary style icons – the ability to communicate identity, confidence and individuality through dress – were qualities Diana embodied decades earlier,” says Halimi.

“Importantly, people are not simply inspired by what she wore; they are inspired by what her fashion choices represented.”